Vancouver Downunder
MELBOURNE - Since arriving in the capital of the state of Victoria only three days ago, I've been living in another reality: the sloping downtown streets of Melbourne - lined with highrises interspersed by both leafy trees and gleaming post-modern high and low-rise buildings - have left me wondering on a number of occasions whether I've actually made an early return to Vancouver, and enjoying the comforts of home with family friends out in the suburbs has almost made me forget entirely that I'm still traveling on the other side of the world.
Despite the surreal nature of it all, I've enjoyed being back in a recognizeable environment. The streets are lined with people of various colours and persuasions, and such diversity is reflected in the food; the dry, warm weather reminds me of how comfortable Vancouver can be on a hot summer afternoon by the sea; and the Yarra River running through downtown Melbourne lends its banks and surrounding neighbourhoods a charm on par with that of False Creek or English Bay. In fact, the only thing that's out of place is this city's well functioning transit system, a mix of long distance commuter trains, buses and electric trams.
The night life also rings a bell. Yesterday evening's tour of a number of downtown bars with my friend Anna and her partner Martin reminded me of those endless summer nights in Montreal on Boulevard St. Laurent or Rue St. Denis when one could enjoy a cold beer with any number of fellow students on a warm, outdoor patio until the wee hours of the morning. Instead of St. Laurent, however, we were on Melbourne's equivalent, Brunswick Street, and instead of staying out until 4am, the three of us only lasted until shortly after 1 o'clock - though not without a few necessary late night slices of pizza.
Even the politicians and the general public are singing a familiar tune. Many Australians, at least those with whom I've spent most of my time, are tired of their current conservative Prime Minister John Howard. He's been in power for what will soon be three terms and has made plenty of enemies in the meantime; our 'liberal' PM has managed to do the same in only a year. They both have ties to big business, but while Mr. Howard is accused of towing the American line, our own Mr. Martin - if missile defence is any indication - has chosen a different route. In any event, the political climates in both realities are indeed interesting ones, each providing plenty of opportunities for PM bashing on either side of the equator.
Though I recognize it all, it's also made me realize that I won't be going back to the home, or rather, to the reality, that I knew eight months ago. Consumer culture is likely the most obvious point of contention, for obvious reasons, but on a more personal level I have a feeling I'll have considerable trouble re-adapting to the pace of suburban living. I've become accustomed to constant change and reoccuring challenges, to adapting to unfamiliar environments, and to the independance of solo travel and life without restrictions or considerable commitments. This all sounds like the beginnings of reverse culture shock, but perhaps it goes a little deeper than that.
I picked up Eric Campbell's (of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation) Absurdistan today, a political travelogue not unlike Robert Kaplan's Ends of the Earth. I've only reached the end of the first chapter and am already envious - like I was before leaving for Bangladesh and while reading TETE (both times) - of the unpredictable life of a foreign correspondant in an unfamiliar land.
Once back in Vancouver I might turn to my natural surroundings for the same sense of adventure - something that whitewater kayaking, backcountry skiing or even a hike into unchartered territory can easily provide - but I might also find myself patiently seeking out the next opportunity to work overseas as well.
For now, however, I'm only concerned with wrapping up the last leg of my 25 day visit to Oz. This will include a visit to Canberra, via an overnight Greyhound bus setting off on Monday. After seeing all there is to see in the nation's capital on Tuesday and spending the night in a hostel - the first time I will have done so in Australia thanks to a convenient network of generous family and friends - I'll once again be hitting the road on a Greyhound and will arrive back in Sydney on Wednesday afternoon for my last night on the continent.
Give yourself a pat on the back if you've managed to make it to the end of this post - it ended up being a tad more introspective than originally planned, but such is the unpredictable nature of blogging.
Despite the surreal nature of it all, I've enjoyed being back in a recognizeable environment. The streets are lined with people of various colours and persuasions, and such diversity is reflected in the food; the dry, warm weather reminds me of how comfortable Vancouver can be on a hot summer afternoon by the sea; and the Yarra River running through downtown Melbourne lends its banks and surrounding neighbourhoods a charm on par with that of False Creek or English Bay. In fact, the only thing that's out of place is this city's well functioning transit system, a mix of long distance commuter trains, buses and electric trams.
The night life also rings a bell. Yesterday evening's tour of a number of downtown bars with my friend Anna and her partner Martin reminded me of those endless summer nights in Montreal on Boulevard St. Laurent or Rue St. Denis when one could enjoy a cold beer with any number of fellow students on a warm, outdoor patio until the wee hours of the morning. Instead of St. Laurent, however, we were on Melbourne's equivalent, Brunswick Street, and instead of staying out until 4am, the three of us only lasted until shortly after 1 o'clock - though not without a few necessary late night slices of pizza.
Even the politicians and the general public are singing a familiar tune. Many Australians, at least those with whom I've spent most of my time, are tired of their current conservative Prime Minister John Howard. He's been in power for what will soon be three terms and has made plenty of enemies in the meantime; our 'liberal' PM has managed to do the same in only a year. They both have ties to big business, but while Mr. Howard is accused of towing the American line, our own Mr. Martin - if missile defence is any indication - has chosen a different route. In any event, the political climates in both realities are indeed interesting ones, each providing plenty of opportunities for PM bashing on either side of the equator.
Though I recognize it all, it's also made me realize that I won't be going back to the home, or rather, to the reality, that I knew eight months ago. Consumer culture is likely the most obvious point of contention, for obvious reasons, but on a more personal level I have a feeling I'll have considerable trouble re-adapting to the pace of suburban living. I've become accustomed to constant change and reoccuring challenges, to adapting to unfamiliar environments, and to the independance of solo travel and life without restrictions or considerable commitments. This all sounds like the beginnings of reverse culture shock, but perhaps it goes a little deeper than that.
I picked up Eric Campbell's (of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation) Absurdistan today, a political travelogue not unlike Robert Kaplan's Ends of the Earth. I've only reached the end of the first chapter and am already envious - like I was before leaving for Bangladesh and while reading TETE (both times) - of the unpredictable life of a foreign correspondant in an unfamiliar land.
Once back in Vancouver I might turn to my natural surroundings for the same sense of adventure - something that whitewater kayaking, backcountry skiing or even a hike into unchartered territory can easily provide - but I might also find myself patiently seeking out the next opportunity to work overseas as well.
For now, however, I'm only concerned with wrapping up the last leg of my 25 day visit to Oz. This will include a visit to Canberra, via an overnight Greyhound bus setting off on Monday. After seeing all there is to see in the nation's capital on Tuesday and spending the night in a hostel - the first time I will have done so in Australia thanks to a convenient network of generous family and friends - I'll once again be hitting the road on a Greyhound and will arrive back in Sydney on Wednesday afternoon for my last night on the continent.
Give yourself a pat on the back if you've managed to make it to the end of this post - it ended up being a tad more introspective than originally planned, but such is the unpredictable nature of blogging.
posted by Per at 7:43 a.m.
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